Thursday, October 25, 2018

Considerations on Recipe Formulation: House Bitter

The beers I brew the most are English Bitters. Looking back, I summed up my feelings about these beers in an earlier post:

To me, English pales (or British bitters, whatever) are the platonic ideal of beer.  This is my white-can-with-the-word-beer-stenciled-in-black-spray-paint beer, the beer that weaned me off the macro-lagers of my misbegotten youth, the house beer at my house beer.  There's not much better—doesn't matter if it's hot, cold, wet, dry, with food, or just a lonely pint—than an easy-drinking, well-balanced English Pale (although its Irish, Scots, and American cousins all come pretty darned close).
Platonic ideal.  As such, I've played around with my house bitter a lot. I've enjoyed the more-complicated recipes, such as the one in Jamil Z's classic styles book, but not as much as simpler recipes: base malt, crystal malt, nice hops, nice yeast. Real talk: I don't think I like the flavor of special roast. I think I like a beer that tastes like the one (good) malt and, often, the one hop and the one yeast. I'm intrigued by Rob Pattinson's recipes--especially that 1945 Tetley's bitter recipe--and I appreciate that some sugar can keep thinks drinkable, but I really can't be bothered to make invert no. 2 at the moment (it's totally on the list--maybe when it's hot out again). As much as I enjoy getting deep into the process, part of the joy of a bitter is that it can be as simple to brew as it is to drink.

Now that I no longer live around the corner from an excellent, or any, homebrew shop, I also need to take provisioning into consideration.  MoreBeer sells 10 pound sacks of pre-crushed base malts with free shipping, including Golden Promise and Maris Otter.  They also sell one-pound packs of EKG, Fuggles, and Willamette pellets and one-pound packs of pre-crushed UK crystal malts.  And the ingredients for four batches are generally enough to carry you across the free-shipping line.  So, I tend to brew all beers with about 10 pounds of base malt and 4 oz of crystal and 2-4 oz of hops--on my systems, that's generally right at the line of a big best bitter, or smallish ESB, which is just fine by me. I'm also fine with this method of determining my OG--who wants to have an odd bit of grain in a bag going slack, when they could just have a bigger beer?  I know for a fact that a number of great breweries never vary from 55 lb increments for the same reason. Given this situation, I know it makes sense to get a mill and start buying sacks (and that's in the plans) but for now it works.

With no LHBS, I've also been relying on dry yeast, like S04, but it's not my favorite. In fact, I prefer US-05, even in an "English"beer, as there's just something about S04 that I don't like. But now it's winter, when yeasts can better survive their travels through the mails, so I can start using liquid yeasts  again, and this year I'm planning to re-pitch more from prior batches (and maybe even do some yeast banking). I want to have my favorites on hand, and I'm deeply intrigued by the idea of brewing an English-style pale with some of these Norweigian Kveik strains during the warm, summer months.  For the moment, I've got a smack-pack of Wyeast 1469, their excellent Timothy Taylor strain that I've really enjoyed in the past (so long as there's enough head space in your fermenter).

So there it is. My ode to a subsistence brewer. My next beer. A recipe based at least as much on household economy (if not laziness) as on any notion of what the beer should be: 10 lbs of Golden Promise. 4 oz of Baird's dark crystal. Two or three boil additions of EKG. Pitch the smack pack, and accept that it's underpitching for the sake of using the cake going forward for the next three batches. I'm expecting Boltmaker writ large.

And it will be beer. 

Wednesday, October 17, 2018

Tasting the Ryed Irish Stout

Goodness, but I do love a good stout. I like them intense and heavy and sweet and even barrel-aged as much as anyone does, but I LOVE them dry and roasty and sessionable.  

A few weeks ago, I brewed what will probably be my last BIAB batch for a while, using a recipe for a Ryed Irish Stout adapted from Michael Dawson's Mashmaker book. It's a fun book, and Dawson has given a lot to us for free over the years, so get the book for the details and some decent writing (this fanboy got the signed copy!).  But, it's not giving away too much to say that the recipe is a classic dry Irish stout with flaked rye subbed in for the flaked barley (my percentages worked out to about 70% MCI Stout Malt, 20% Flaked Rye, and 10% Roasted Barley,  aiming for 1.044 OG, bittered to about 40 IBU with a single charge of East Kent Goldings, and pitched some rehydrated US-05 fermented at the cooler end of its range). 

Still life with stout on
Scandinavian-Themed Countertop.


Appearance - Black. Opaque. Like one of the more-famous marks for the style, you can tell in a strong light at the edges of the glass that it's actually a sort of intense reddish brown, but anything more than a quarter inch, it's black.  The head on this thing is also silly, with a thick beta-glucan-inspired meringue that reminds me of the ice-cream-and-soda foam on top of a rootbeer float.  

Aroma - It's got a nice clean, beery aroma that...wait, what is that? Just at the edge of perception, there's just the barest hint of that elusive-but-unmistakeable rye aroma (can something be elusive and unmistakable? Is that a thing? Is this beer gaslighting me?).  Once it warms up, the smell is definitely there, but still hard for me to describe, like an earthy, well-baked loaf of bread.  

Mouthfeel and Flavor - When straight out of the tap (where I've got the pressure too high and the temperature too low), this is pleasantly dry and roasty, with just the barest hint that something is different from the standard Guinness clone.  When it warms up  and the carbonation has dissipated, the slick, smooth mouthfeel from all that flaked rye really comes through, and the roast becomes a little less coffee and more chocolate.  Oh, and you really start to get the rye flavor. How do you describe rye in a beer?  I've heard "spicy" but to me it's earthy, tending to almost herbal.  Definitely reminds me of bread I've made with a lot of rye, but also with a flavor that reminds me of both mint and wintergreen, but without really being minty, if that makes sense. I guess it tastes like rye?  It's been years since my last rye stout, and I don't have the best palate, but the flavor was immediately familiar.  

Notes - Love this, especially when I manage to serve it at decent cellar temps, where it comes out chocolately and earthy and complex, with a satisfying creamy mouthfeel, but still dry enough to put down quite a few pints in a sitting. I like how the US-05 let the malt come through on its own terms, but in future I would definitely consider a more expressive yeast. While I'm at it, perhaps a more-complex malt bill and hopping schedule...but would it really be a dry Irish stout at that point?


Saturday, October 13, 2018

Brewing Broke Okra APA...er...IPA?

I brewed the first batch of beer on my new cooler MLT, and it was a complete joy.  Batch sparging came back to me like riding a bicycle (a bit wobbly, but got there!), and I believe my efficiency woes may be over.  While my plan was to brew an American pale ale, based on an expected efficiency of around 65%, I ended up well in IPA range with 74% efficiency. The upshot is that my 1.056 APA ended up being a 1.063 IPA. Honestly, I don't think the beer will be so very different, as it was a bit strong for an APA and it's low to middlin' for an IPA, but I'm thrilled that it's once again a snap to get my extract.

Used the stove for my strike water to save on propane. 
One thing I used to hate about batch sparging before was cleaning the mash tun, but that was for 10-gallon batches.  The grist for a 5-gallon batch isn't that heavy. I even moved it around during the mash without much trouble. Dumping the spent grain on the compost heap and spraying it out took less than 5 minutes.

Now, there may be a few other explanations for this high efficiency.  One is that I used double-milled grain meant for a BIAB batch, so I may not be able to expect above 70% with regular milled grain.  That would be fine, as I had a bit of a slow, if not quite stuck, sparge.  Two is that this recipe is for a very pale beer, and the only pale beer I made using the BIAB setup had a similar efficiency.  My water is very soft, so this may be a chemistry issue.  I'm looking forward to brewing a few more times to see if I can get a predictable efficiency from this system.

This is also my first time using a hop stand.  Most of the hops went in at flameout, and then I let them sit for 30 minutes without chilling.  I'm hoping I got some bitterness and good aroma out of that addition, or this may be a fairly boring beer.

UPDATE: I went ahead and dry hopped this with 2 ounces each of Cascade and Chinook. It turned out lovely. Recipe below. Tasting notes here.

BeerSmith 2 Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com
Recipe: Broke Okra APA...er...IPA
Brewer: V.A. Dongarra
Asst Brewer:
Style: American IPA
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (30.0)

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 7.77 gal
Post Boil Volume: 6.77 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal 
Bottling Volume: 5.00 gal
Estimated OG: 1.062 SG
Estimated Color: 6.5 SRM
Estimated IBU: 51.3 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 73.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 86.3 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amt                   Name                                     Type          #        %/IBU       
5.00 g               Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate)     
2.00 g               Calcium Chloride           
11 lbs               Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)            Grain         4        84.6 %     
1 lbs                 Munich Malt (9.0 SRM)                           Grain         5        7.7 %       
1 lbs                 Victory Malt (25.0 SRM)                         Grain         6        7.7 %       
14 g                  Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min            Hop           7        10.3 IBUs   
14 g                  Chinook [11.60 %] - Boil 60.0 min          Hop           8        21.7 IBUs   
0.50 Items        Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 mins)            Fining        9        -           
43 g                  Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 10.0 min            Hop           10       6.2 IBUs   
43 g                  Chinook [11.60 %] - Boil 10.0 min          Hop           11       13.0 IBUs   
1.0 pkg             Safale American  (DCL/Fermentis #US-05)  Yeast         12       -           
56 g                  Cascade [5.50 %] - Dry Hop 7 Days        Hop           13       0.0 IBUs   
56 g                  Chinook [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 7 Days     Hop           14       0.0 IBUs   


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 13 lbs
----------------------------
Name              Description                             Step Temperat Step Time   
Mash In           Add 4.6 gal of water at 162.4 F         152.0 F       60 min     

Sparge: Batch sparge with 2 steps (1.13gal, 4.14gal) of 168.0 F water
Notes:
------
Decided to move all of the late hops to the end for a hop stand.  Just to see.  Dropped in everything but the first addition at flameout, propped the lid on-ish (tilted up to let steam out and bugs in, I guess, and set a timer for 25 minutes to see how this works. Stirred once about half way through to get a whirlpool rolling.

Used double crushed grain meant for BIAB in my new cooler MLT.  First runnings were 4 gallons of 1.070. Second runnings were 3.5 gallons of 1.030.  Ended up getting 1.046 starting runnings, which was about what my OG was supposed to be.  Calculated at 65%, but got around 73% efficiency.  Just going to go from calling it an APA and call it an IPA.  Hope there are enough hops in there!

Dry hopped onto a gigantic, clean looking krausen at 4 days into fermentation.  Left it for the remaining time. Cold crashed after 12 days, kegged right at two weeks from brew day.

Fined with 1/2 tsp of gelatin, came out crystal, read-the-paper-though-it clear.

Created with BeerSmith 2 - http://www.beersmith.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

New MLT build

I've gone ahead and built my new mash/lauter tun.  The first one that I ever built was made from a 48-quart cooler with the flag of the Republic of Texas on the side. For some reason, potentially government subsidies, the cooler with the flag was cheaper in the Plano Walmart than the plain cooler.  It was a good size for a 5-gallon batch, but it didn't hold temperatures that well. When I sized up to a 10-gallon setup, I went with a 70-Quart Coleman Xtreme. This did a great job of holding temperatures, but it was a great, unwieldy beast. Both found homes in the Richmond homebrew scene when I moved back to the Eastern Shore a couple of years ago.

With ingredients for a 5-gallon APA.
NASCAR-style stickers courtesy of Chop & Brew.
Happily, I found a 52-quart Coleman Xtreme on Amazon.  You can see it with a sack of grain for a 5-gallon batch of APA for scale. The cooler is pretty bulky because of all the insulation in the walls, but it's nicely sized. I used to dread the need to move the 70-quart model, especially to empty the spent grain from a 10-gallon batch of high gravity beer.  I expect this version to be easier on my back.

As for details of the build, it's essentially the same MLT build you can find all over the internet, I believe originally popularized by Denny Conn during the great batch-sparge revolution of the early Oughts, and which I originally found on Don Osborne's page.  If you want a detailed build plan with a parts list and step-by-step instructions, check out this Brulosophy post.

Fiddly Bits

I went with brass fittings that I picked up from Lowe's, along with some random plumbing parts I've had laying about from brewing and general home-ownership (why are there always extra parts?). One thing I liked about the Brulosphy build was putting a weight at the end of the stainless steel braid.  I'm not sure it if matters for sparging, but that thing does get in the way when it floats about.  I clamped part of an old brass compression fitting I had laying around to the end of mine.

Action End
The other thing I really like about the Brulosophy build is the use of washers to take up space between the fittings and the side walls.  My first build had the fittings directly up against the cooler with only an o-ring in between.  turning the valve on and off caused significant flex in the cooler as the valve structure would push against the plastic. The big washers spread the torque out over a wider area, and it feels less like turning a valve will pull the entire structure out from the wall.  Using a thick-walled cooler also helps here.

Perhaps unwisely, I plan to have the first run of this cooler using grain I had double milled for the BIAB setup.  I'm a bit worried that the finer crush will end up in a stuck sparge, but if worse comes to worse, the grist is small enough that I'll be able to pour the entire thing into the brew bag. Yet another benefit of the smaller brew length.





Sunday, October 7, 2018

2018 Easton Beer Festival

I spent a couple of hours yesterday at the 2018 Easton Beer Festival, where I had the opportunity to taste beers from breweries from the Mid-Atlantic, mostly from Virginia, Delaware, and Maryland, but all within a half day's drive.

My goal was to leave in a reasonable state of mind and to be able to enjoy today, so I had a lot of half pours in my tiny tasting glass, poured quite a bit out into the buckets that were all over the venue, and skipped anything I could get fresh and local (so, I didn't try the offerings from the two excellent breweries one-town-over from my house, RAR and Eastern Shore Brewing--I'll see those guys in their tasting rooms with full pints, thanks).
Beer Fest Selfie

I didn't get to try everything, but there were a few standouts.

EVO had their always-excellent Lot 3 IPA in cask and dry hopped with Citra. As far as I'm concerned, this beer was best in show. EVO must spend a lot of time paying attention to their packaging, because it's always on point, and this was just super fresh and delicious.  Dry, clean, bitter and incredibly aromatic.  Just lovely.  Their Day Crush Session Sour was also good.

Cult Classic is the newest brewery in my neck of the woods, and just a bit too far for an easy drive, so I haven't had a chance to check them out.  They brought a perfectly crafted Munich-style helles lager that made me wish I were in a bier garden. Clean, fresh malt, with the barest hint of hops to balance it out. The perfect palate cleanser between the more extreme offerings at most other booths. My only complaints were that it should have come in liters and been offered with soft pretzels and bratwurst. They also brought a very well-made Irish red.

Stone. Here's the thing. I love a small brewery and the exiting stuff that comes out of so many of them. But there's something to be said for 20 years of experience in the craft, and the Stone Totalitarian Imperial Russian Stout was just. on. point.  10.6% abv, but not in the least bit hot. Cocoa and coffee, rich but terrifyingly quaffable, deep dark fruits. Just excellent.  Bonus that I got to chat with the guy about what a great town Richmond is. Shame we moved right before they opened.

Monument City Brewing brought the second best cask I had in the form of their 51 Rye, dry hopped and with orange in the cask.  I'm not usually a fruited IPA guy, but this was on point. The bitter peel from the orange melded perfectly with the fruity hops to the point where you'd just ask "does this have oranges in it?" I AM a cask guy, and the pin was on point with the perfect carbonation and cellar temp (not bad for just sitting out...I must have gotten there at the right time).

Reading the above, it's clear I'm a crotchety old man. I tried the occasional NEIPA and kettle sour, but they didn't really blow my skirt up. Not that I don't love IPAs made with expressive yeasts or sour beers...I'm just less excited by the beers riding those trends. I prefer a bracing bitterness in an IPA and a bit more complexity in a sour than is typical right now.  But I'm still very excited by cask beer and crazy stouts, which were the exciting new trend...well...I don't remember, but I'm sure they were at some point.

Another thing I noticed in trying some beers is how very different some beers are on tap from when I've had them in the can or bottle. You expect the freshest keg at a festival, but some of these beers are completely different animals. One english-style beer that shall remain un-named, in particular, read as having a ton of caramel and a heavy, over-sweet character in the can, but was fresher, dryer and brighter at the festival with a notable hop bite. My thought in trying the beer in cans a few weeks ago was that it was heavily oxidized (and only really good for braising beans) and this confirmed it. I hadn't planned to ever drink that beer again, based on my poor experience of the packaged product, and only got a sample to confirm. I see how much of a shame that is based on the fresh product.

There's a lot talk about how we've got nearly 7,000 breweries today, that it's a bubble, and that we're going to see a shakeout like the great brew-pub purge of the late 90s.  I hope it's not as bad as all that, but I have to say that some of these folks need to get their packaging ducks in a row if they want to compete against the breweries noted above, which can provide me a similar beer whether I get it fresh at a festival or in a can off the shelf. Now get off my lawn. 

UPDATE/CONFIRMATION: A Double IPA won best of show. I...didn't try any double IPAs.
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